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I pick up my bag from the tarmac and wave good-bye.It’s a classic South Pacific scene: idle, indolent and idyllic.The Pacific Sun Airways twin-prop taxis to the boxy terminal building, its plain concrete walls are mildewed by the constant tropical humidity.A small hand-painted sign states simply, ‘Savu Savu’. [caption id="attachment_2095" align="alignnone" width="362"] Savu Savu airport terminal buidling.[/caption] The two pilots help unload the cargo.I try a mango daiquiri and sample the chilled poached prawns with lemon mayonnaise, deciding then that I may have to feign injury to avoid leaving the next day.Another treat is a foot and leg massage which is offered to all guests as part of the welcome-to-paradise introduction.On previous shark dives in South Africa I was alone in a cage while Great Whites eyeballed me.Though these were extraordinarily exciting dives, I felt like a sliced lunch at the seal diner, cold and unappetising.

We decide to dive the ‘Golden Nuggets’, three bommies approximately one kilometre offshore adorned in golden soft coral unlike any I’ve seen.It’s very far from the packaged holiday trip most visitors to Fiji experience.The small plane descends over Savu Savu Bay, crosses a peninsula and the township of Savu Savu.A lone cow grazes on the fringes of the short runway.Trade winds, undulating palm fronds, scarlet hibiscus and white frangipani, purple prose material abounds.

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